Wednesday, July 31, 2013

how to de-pot eyeshadow

There are few variations on this, but they are all basically the same.
This is just my preferred method.

What you need:
what you are de-potting (eyeshadow, blush, powder. bronzer)
candle (I've also seen this done with a flat iron, an oven or toaster over, a lighter, and a crafter's heat gun.. you just need a heating implement)
a knife or xacto blade or metal nail file, just something you can pry with
tweezers
optional: strip of magnet (I'll tell you why this is optional later) or other temporary adhesive

This is geared to a specific type of case, one that has an insert and shell.
NYX, MAC and few other brands have this style packaging for their singles.
As I collect and de-pot, I'll try my best to show the variety of methods based on packaging. 
(This is NYX Nude Matte Shadow in Covet, in case you're wondering.)

First, you'll use the knife to separate the insert from the shell.
Not sure how well it translates, but you wedge and wiggle the blade in and under the insert.
You may have to change tools depending on how stubborn the insert is.
I forgot to photograph it, but after the initial 'break' with the xacto, I had to use the tweezers wiggled into gap to actually pop the insert.  

This is what you should have after you pop the insert.
I save the shell, because my kids like to play with them.
They are handy for keeping things like stud earrings and other small jewelry for travel, also if you clean them out really well can be used to keep medications or other small things to toss in your purse. 

Next up light your candle.
The glues used by most cosmetic companies is heat reactive, meaning it melts when exposed to heat.
Now, since this is plastic be aware there may be fumes.
Not bad enough to make you sick, but they stink; so I like scented candles to help with that.
I also like candles because it's fairly hands free, and it's kind of to scale for me since this is an infrequent occurrence with only 1-3 shadows at a time.
Like I mention previously, you can use a flat iron or oven or heat gun, or just a lighter.
Each one has it's pros and cons.
Using a flat iron means using wax or parchment paper to protect from the melting plastic, but it's fairly hands free if you have a flat iron that can sit flat on the table.
The oven is hands free, but I have a few qualms with using it.
Unless you are doing a large batch, it's kind of a waste to heat up the whole oven for the such a short time (less than 10 minutes), also I use my oven to cook and bake... so the idea of melting plastic in there just doesn't seem like a good idea.
If you end up doing this a lot and reasonable size batches, you might want to invest in a dedicated toaster oven.
I've never used a heat, so I can't really comment.
And a lighter just gets hot if you have use it more than once and it's not hands free.
I'm done rambling.

Use the tweezers to hold the edge of the insert.
Hold it over the candle, roughly centered over the flame, check it about 10-30 second in.
The closer to the flame the shorter the time. 

You can't really see it, but you are watching for the plastic to get shiny, soft, and maybe a bit bubbly.

If it's not there yet, place back over the flame for another 10-30 

 After it's soft use a a blunt object, like the back of the xacto blade, to push on the center and release the pan.
BE CAREFUL!
Plastic does transfer heat and the edges may be pretty hot.

After the pan is released, use the tweezers to pull the pan out.
It bears repeating: BE CAREFUL!
The pan is metal and has been exposed to heat, it WILL BE HOT!
USE THE TWEEZERS.

 There is the potential that you may just melt the plastic or that your blunt object with punch a hole in the softened plastic.
Just so you know.

Now, the reason the magnetic strip is optional is because some pans are already a metal that magnets like. 
So if your using these in a magnetic palette no need to add anything.
If your pans are not magnetic, then you'll need to add a small square to the bottom.
You can also use a permanent marker to label the pan with the brand and color.

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