Wednesday, July 31, 2013

how to de-pot eyeshadow

There are few variations on this, but they are all basically the same.
This is just my preferred method.

What you need:
what you are de-potting (eyeshadow, blush, powder. bronzer)
candle (I've also seen this done with a flat iron, an oven or toaster over, a lighter, and a crafter's heat gun.. you just need a heating implement)
a knife or xacto blade or metal nail file, just something you can pry with
tweezers
optional: strip of magnet (I'll tell you why this is optional later) or other temporary adhesive

This is geared to a specific type of case, one that has an insert and shell.
NYX, MAC and few other brands have this style packaging for their singles.
As I collect and de-pot, I'll try my best to show the variety of methods based on packaging. 
(This is NYX Nude Matte Shadow in Covet, in case you're wondering.)

First, you'll use the knife to separate the insert from the shell.
Not sure how well it translates, but you wedge and wiggle the blade in and under the insert.
You may have to change tools depending on how stubborn the insert is.
I forgot to photograph it, but after the initial 'break' with the xacto, I had to use the tweezers wiggled into gap to actually pop the insert.  

This is what you should have after you pop the insert.
I save the shell, because my kids like to play with them.
They are handy for keeping things like stud earrings and other small jewelry for travel, also if you clean them out really well can be used to keep medications or other small things to toss in your purse. 

Next up light your candle.
The glues used by most cosmetic companies is heat reactive, meaning it melts when exposed to heat.
Now, since this is plastic be aware there may be fumes.
Not bad enough to make you sick, but they stink; so I like scented candles to help with that.
I also like candles because it's fairly hands free, and it's kind of to scale for me since this is an infrequent occurrence with only 1-3 shadows at a time.
Like I mention previously, you can use a flat iron or oven or heat gun, or just a lighter.
Each one has it's pros and cons.
Using a flat iron means using wax or parchment paper to protect from the melting plastic, but it's fairly hands free if you have a flat iron that can sit flat on the table.
The oven is hands free, but I have a few qualms with using it.
Unless you are doing a large batch, it's kind of a waste to heat up the whole oven for the such a short time (less than 10 minutes), also I use my oven to cook and bake... so the idea of melting plastic in there just doesn't seem like a good idea.
If you end up doing this a lot and reasonable size batches, you might want to invest in a dedicated toaster oven.
I've never used a heat, so I can't really comment.
And a lighter just gets hot if you have use it more than once and it's not hands free.
I'm done rambling.

Use the tweezers to hold the edge of the insert.
Hold it over the candle, roughly centered over the flame, check it about 10-30 second in.
The closer to the flame the shorter the time. 

You can't really see it, but you are watching for the plastic to get shiny, soft, and maybe a bit bubbly.

If it's not there yet, place back over the flame for another 10-30 

 After it's soft use a a blunt object, like the back of the xacto blade, to push on the center and release the pan.
BE CAREFUL!
Plastic does transfer heat and the edges may be pretty hot.

After the pan is released, use the tweezers to pull the pan out.
It bears repeating: BE CAREFUL!
The pan is metal and has been exposed to heat, it WILL BE HOT!
USE THE TWEEZERS.

 There is the potential that you may just melt the plastic or that your blunt object with punch a hole in the softened plastic.
Just so you know.

Now, the reason the magnetic strip is optional is because some pans are already a metal that magnets like. 
So if your using these in a magnetic palette no need to add anything.
If your pans are not magnetic, then you'll need to add a small square to the bottom.
You can also use a permanent marker to label the pan with the brand and color.

Wednesday, July 24, 2013

diy magnetic palette

supplies:
a fly fishing hook case
a sheet of self adhesive magnet
tools:
scissors

 duct tape is optional

place the hook case on the paper side of the magnet

trace around case

 cut to the inside of your outline to accommodate the edging of the case

check the fit and adjust if need be.

then peel off the paper backing from the magnet and in it goes

I used the duct tape to decorate the outside to fit my taste

 these are de-potted nyx cosmetics eyeshadows, i have a tutorial on how to do so coming up soon



Thursday, July 18, 2013

eye of the day


don't be afraid of color, this year is all about green... super dark or super light are, surprisingly, often more subtle for daytime wear

Tuesday, July 16, 2013

silver firs farm

I am not a product snob.
I believe that quality is not limited by price tag or packaging or anything else.
In fact, I love independent beauty brands.
So here I introduce:

Silver Firs Farms

As a disclaimer, the owner operator magician, Kristen, is my friend.
But that doesn't mean I would brag about her unless she did awesome things.
And she does awesome things, lots of them.
I also whole-heartedly believe that she will take her awesomeness all the way.
So... you are probably wondering what she does.
She makes bath and body products from really good, high quality ingredients.
And I've been lucky enough to sample her lip balms and soaps.
She has options for men and women.
They all smell and feel awesome on the skin.
I can attest that she does the research to make the best products she can, and is even going one step further by continuing her education in skin care.
That says a lot for me, even though formal education doesn't necessarily prove skill or expertise.
I love the grapefruit lip balm.
And for my recent baby shower she gifted me some soaps.
I haven't picked a favorite yet, but you can see what she has in stock by clicking here.
I implore those of you convinced that commercial is best to give her stuff a try!

Wednesday, July 10, 2013

spectrum cosmetics

matte, highly pigmented eyeshadows in a variety are hard to come by at an affordable price.
my secret is spectrum cosmetics.
this little etsy shop is run by Erica out of Pittsburg, Pennsylvania.
these are mineral based shadows in virtually every color of the rainbow!
and even better: no bismuth-oxychloride in the major of her colors.
i am so impressed with the color payoff that it is totally worth it.
at $3 each for the small, and $5 for the larger size, it's very affordable to pick up the full collection of mattes.
(which I did)
i'd like to try out some of the other finishes she offers in the future.
some thoughts on applying these:
these are loose pigments so it can get messy and it can/will stain clothing, brush bristles, etc.
expect fall down, so use shadow shields or don't finish your base until your done with the eyes (this trick is actually pretty standard among pros)
when layering over cream shadows use a patting motion with a flat shader brush the blend with a fluffy brush.
without a cream base, it's a good idea the lay down a skin tone matching eyeshadow as a base; a dense fluffy brush works best for this.
these can be used wet or dry and can be mixed together for unique shades and it plays well with other brands.